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Friday, May 11, 2007

Mercury Ask A Brit—”Kippers.”

Posted by Matt Davis on Fri, May 11 at 1:05 PM

Dan Savage may call himself a “columnist,” and be all “syndicated” (shaping twenty-first century cultural attitudes to sex and sexuality, blah blah blah) but I bet it’s rare for even him to get as many pleas for advice as I have over the last few days. I’m talking, of course, in my capacity as the Mercury’s resident Brit adviser. Email your questions on Britishness to: askabrit@portlandmercury.com. On, then, to the one question I have been asked so far. Dave Lister asks:

So have you eaten kippers? Are they like eating a hairbrush? My dad said they were. He was born in Canada but his folks all came across in 1912. Dad always wanted steak and kidney pie, but my mom refused to cook it for him. Dave Lister
kipper22.jpg“KIPPERS”: More than just a good name for a dog…

Kippers are herrings split lengthwise, and smoked, usually eaten hot with bread and butter. The ideal kipper has a refined and homely smokiness, but of a subtleness dwarfed by most American flavors. It is best eaten with a cup of tea, for breakfast, perhaps on a Sunday, while reading the newspaper.

Most Brits enjoy kippers often although the fish do contain thousands of tiny bones, which I imagine is why Dave Lister’s dad described them as like “eating a hairbrush.” Fair, Dave, but then Brits don’t mind making an effort when they’re eating, and are happy to sacrifice convenience in return for a more complex experience. In fact, the difficulty of eating Kippers appeals to many Brits’ deep sense of social masochism: If eating kippers were just plain enjoyable, why do it?

On the other hand given that most Americans would prefer to hook up high-sugar feeding tubes and forget altogether about the concept of “chewing,” Dave, your father is to be commended for trying. It’s also a shame he never got his steak and kidney pie—which when well-made is delicious with its fatty pastry crust and plenty of medicinal kidneys, interrupted occasionally by the odd soggy wodge of beef. Mmmm.

Tempted? You can buy inferior kippers at Wholefoods but for the real deal, you would have to go to an English supermarket or better still, an old fishing town like Whitby. Sadly, I don’t think the airfare would be worth it for the kippers alone, but if you get a chance to try one while in Britain for some other purpose, please do.

Comments

"Wodge"?

"Hefty wodge"="Large chunk." But I'm amazed you read that far!

OK, we get that you hate the Scots, but I have a question about the cuisine of your white-trash cousins to the north, if you can manage to see past that vicious racism of yours...

HAGGIS.

What the hell is this Haggis ? I've been told it's some weird Scottish dish involving a whole sheep stomach, that you cook for hours and hours while getting just slobbering drunk of Scotch. Then, supposedly, that baked sheep stomach stuffed full of all this weird fuckin' shit is somewhat more edible.

Do tell.

Oh man... I was beginning to think no one else ate kippers. My dad was a whore for all things smoked and canned... oysters, mussels, kippers, etc.

So Matt... ever had the kippers packed in mustard?? High class shit right there.

They serve haggis at the Rose and Thistle:

Rose and Thistle, 2314 NE Broadway, 287-8582

Yeah my dad eats those like crazy, too! Ew.

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