This Week in the Mercury
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Fashion / Ethics The Nau Warehouse Sale
Posted by Marjorie Skinner on Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 5:44 PM
How do we feel about Nau these days? Do we wish they manufactured their product in the USA? I certainly do. Does it make a difference that they make an effort to be transparent about it, and why they've made those choices? I certainly think it helps.
Widespread public opinion still contends that a company's decision to source and manufacture goods in Asia-and more specifically in China-is solely based on a desire for cheap labor. The truth, though, is often much more complicated and nuanced. Not only have Asian manufacturers become the experts in working with the most modern textiles and technologies, but they also produce some of the highest quality workmanship at competitive prices. Combine those factors with recent improvements in workers' conditions and the use of third party monitoring of social and environmental conditions, and it becomes clear that there is room for new perceptions of offshore manufacturing.
I'll leave it up to you to decide your own priorities, but if I have to choose between active wear brands... well I might check in on Filson first, which is regionally based and still retains some of its manufacturing in the US, but Nau would be my second bet... California's not so far away (besides, a certain local tailor coughadamarnoldcough has been dodging my queries regarding the availability of a fabulous rain suit he designed for fall/winter). Plus this could well tip the balance: Next week, from the 15th to the 18th, Nau is having a massive warehouse sale, with 40-80% off of items from previous seasons (10 am-8 pm Thursday, 11 am-8 pm Friday and Saturday, and 11 am-5 pm on Sunday, at 525 NW 10th). Yeeee-haw. Riding bikes in the rain...
The fashion world marches on over on MOD.
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I don't think much of Nau's explanation for outsourcing labor changes anything. The idea that the Chinese are "the experts", have the "highest quality workmanship" is bull. There's nothing that can be done there that can't be done here. The only part that rings true about their statement is the "at competitive prices" part; and that just means "at labor rates that are so low, it would be illegal here".
My real problem with a company like Nau though, is that they claim to be an eco-friendly clothing manufacturer, yet they produce their goods in a country with lax environmental standards, and then they use a bunch of fossil fuel to ship their goods half way around the world to sell here.
Their website specifically states that both the wages they pay, and the environmental standards they hold their manufacturers to must meet at least the minimum standard set by the laws of THAT country. Standards which are much lower on both accounts than what we expect here.
Nothing is "green" if it's not produced locally.
Actually, a lot of countries with textile and apparel industries like China, India, and Turkey have fairly decent labor and environmental protections, it's just the enforcement of them that is a problem.
And, to further put things in perspective, it's been a long time (decades) since the US was a major producer of textiles and apparel. That means any technological advances that have occurred within the industry have mostly happened overseas. Particularly with regard to textiles, most of the high-tech stuff is milled in Asia.
While I agree with your sentiment that US-based manufacturing is better, it's not so easy as just placing an order with a US mill. In many cases the capability is just not there. So, basically what I'm saying is that it's not that simple.
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