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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Food Laurelhurst Market—Now Open

Posted by Alison Hallett on Wed, May 27, 2009 at 9:27 AM

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After months of renovation, Laurelhurst Market, the butcher shop/restaurant from the Viande/Simpatica dudes (Jason Owens, Benjamin Dyer, and Dave Kreifels), finally opened last week at 3155 E Burnside, former home of that one crappy convenience store that always had stale gum. I swung by Monday after an afternoon spent inhaling other peoples' BBQ at Laurelhurst Park, during which open-air animal cooking really started to feel like the biological imperative that it, I suppose, is. Plenty of options at the meat counter—a variety of sausages, patés, foie gras, Draper Valley chicken, smoked duck, ground beef, short ribs, steaks, fresh eggs ($.50/each), etc. The butcher counter is open from 10 am-7 pm daily, selling sandwiches from 11 am-5 pm, and the adjacent dining room is open from 5-10pm Wed-Mon. There's also a bar in the back with a sliding door/window that opens onto a side patio, and the hostess mentioned the possibility of industry specials on Mondays, though she was fuzzy on details. I snagged a menu—it's a for-real steakhouse, with prices on the higher end: $18 steak frites, a la carte steaks and chops from $16-29; sides, like mac & cheese or grilled romaine w/romesco, in the $5-7 range. Things I really want to eat include pork rillettes with pickled rhubarb; foie with rhubarb mostarda and pistachio butter; a Southern fried game hen. And a porterhouse. (The doneness scale on the bottom of the menu is a wonderful thing, from Rare ["Red. Cool center."] to Well Done ["Not Recommended."]) Vegetarians should be able to build a decent meal out of sides and salads—or, you know, don't have dinner at a steakhouse. Everyone I spoke with was personable and welcoming in a way that made feel good about spending money there. Anyone had dinner there yet? Report back.

 

Comments (8) RSS

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1
I was drinking with a butcher last night. He seemed impressed with the meat there... But he also said it was expensive.

Then he told me that he doesn't pay for meat anyways because he's a butcher.
Posted by Graham on May 27, 2009 at 10:01 AM · Report
2
I've had the roast beef sandwich. VERY good and a pretty reasonable price. I've certainly paid more for less.
Posted by Amos on May 27, 2009 at 11:13 AM · Report
3
Butcher shop is open 'til 7.
Posted by JasonC on May 27, 2009 at 12:15 PM · Report
4
I'll change that, thanks Jason.
Posted by Alison Hallett on May 27, 2009 at 1:37 PM · Report
5
Foie gras: it's OK when hipsters are selling it!
Posted by Spine on May 27, 2009 at 4:10 PM · Report
6
Foie gras: it's OK when it's in my mouth!
Posted by Graham on May 27, 2009 at 5:27 PM · Report
7
Judging from a few past (unironic) musical references in the Simpatica newsletter, I don't think anyone will confuse Ben Dyer with a hipster.

And Viande was in the thick of the original foie protests. Probably helps that they are nicer guys than Tom Hurley.
Posted by JasonC on May 27, 2009 at 5:41 PM · Report
8
Bumped into my neighbor who was just walking back home after dinner there - she couldn't stop raving. Another great choice in our neighborhood!
Posted by Cathy in Laurelhurst on May 28, 2009 at 7:18 AM · Report

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