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Friday, February 26, 2010

Food / Drunk This Week’s Mercury Food Section: Gastro-Dives

Posted by Patrick Alan Coleman on Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 10:07 AM

Slingshot Burger. Yum.
  • Slingshot Burger. Yum.
The Slingshot Lounge on Foster is not necessarily a dive. However, it does have some dive qualities: darkness, serious rock-laden jukebox, a battered bathroom, generous bartenders, sometimes crusty work-a-day clientele, Rainer tall boys, lots of concrete, and a good selection of pinball.

That being said, it’s certainly cleaner and more aesthetically pleasing than most dives. Also, they have a menu that reaches far beyond dive bar food. In that respect the Slingshot comes close to what’s known as a gastro-pub. But I don’t think it’s a gastro-pub. I’d rather call it a gastro-dive. Why? Because I love dive bars and I love good food and I’d like nothing more than to see a gastro-dive trend catch on. If it can happen anywhere in the world, it can happen in Portland.

More Gastro-Dives and a Chance to Nominate Your Own, After the Jump!

There are already a few places doing this. In fact, I briefly worked at one as a line cook and bartender, though at the time I didn’t necessarily realize how special the place was. Yes, I’m certainly biased in my opinion, but for what it’s worth, The Lamp [3023 Southeast Milwaukie] (connected to the Aladdin theater) is putting together some of the better bar food you’ve eaten. They‘re also using veggies from the Sellwood Garden Club’s network of urban farms.

Another place that fits the gastro-dive concept, in my opinion, would be Slow Bar [533 Southeast Grand], with its semi-sleazy atmosphere and a damn fine gourmet burger. If the Night Light [2100 Southeast Clinton] were just a bit rougher, I think it would also fit the bill.

Okay, so the concept is a little unfocused, but I think the key here is cheap stiff drinks, loud music, down to earth clientele, a slightly seedy atmosphere, and an ingredient-forward menu geared toward quality.

With that in mind, Blogtownies, do you have any Gastro-Dive suggestions?

 

Comments (25) RSS

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1
@ PAC: re "Down to earth clientele"

Care to unpack that one a bit? I don't meet a lot of foodie class warriors.
Posted by Commenty Colin on February 26, 2010 at 10:23 AM · Report
2
This is a little OT, but does the Slingshot still have air hockey?
Posted by Alison Hallett on February 26, 2010 at 10:24 AM · Report
3
I think they replaced it with more pinball or big buck hunter or something like that.

Which is a shame, as there are few air hockey options in pdx.
Posted by Commenty Colin on February 26, 2010 at 10:34 AM · Report
4
Also, unless they've finally leveled it properly, they had one of the worst shuffleboard tables I've ever played on (as of a year ago). Only the back pool table is level, too.

This concludes your possibly accurate Slingshot sports report.
Posted by Commenty Colin on February 26, 2010 at 10:37 AM · Report
5
@Alison
Yep.

@Colin
Yeah. The thing is, more and more I'm meeting working class gourmands who drink just as heavily as they eat, but they'd rather dine at a lowbrow joint with really good grub than say, the Heathman. Down to earth. They're more apt to buy and shuck the oyster themselves than order one in some kind of fancy schmancy dish. If the price is right, however, they'll give it a shot.

Does that make a bit of sense?
Posted by Patrick A. Coleman on February 26, 2010 at 10:47 AM · Report
6
Does that leave the Avalon arcade and a bowling alley or two, for air hockey tables?
Posted by Alison Hallett on February 26, 2010 at 10:47 AM · Report
7
HUHHH (inhale)? Air Hockey? Is there really a bar with air hockey? If not the Slingshot, I must know. My only chance is to play some grubby pre-teen when I occassionally take my nephew to Wonderland.
Posted by TSW on February 26, 2010 at 10:48 AM · Report
8
Oh! Awesome.
Posted by Alison Hallett on February 26, 2010 at 10:48 AM · Report
9
I lived right around the corner from Slingshots for a year and never once left with anything but contempt. Only good thing about the joint is the cat they let hang out in and around the bar. You're better off going to Smoky's a block down the street. It's pretty gross, but I'll happily drink out of a dirty glass if it's served sans pretension.
Posted by CH on February 26, 2010 at 10:53 AM · Report
10
My favorite gastro-dive is probably Reel M Inn. Heavy on the dive, MASSIVELY heavy on the gastro-!
Posted by Michelle on February 26, 2010 at 10:54 AM · Report
11
The problem is (and this adds to the Slingshot's dive factor) the air hockey table is insanely loud in that room. No way I'll just hang and eat back there with that noise. But then again, if the air hockey is too loud then I'm to old, right?

Back on topic:

I'd also call Tanuki a gastro-dive, intentionally so, I might add. Any others?
Posted by Patrick A. Coleman on February 26, 2010 at 10:55 AM · Report
12
According to foursquare, Lucky's on NE 28th & Glisan has air hockey.
Posted by DemonJuice on February 26, 2010 at 10:55 AM · Report
13
Tanuki is very gastro, but hardly a dive. Hal's is a dive. The aforementioned Smoky's is a dive. Tanuki? Absolutely not. Really, even Slingshot? Hardly.
Posted by jake on February 26, 2010 at 11:04 AM · Report
14
I like the grub at shanghai tunnel. The hand-pressed black bean burgers are kind.

Posted by ROM on February 26, 2010 at 11:07 AM · Report
15
@Jake

I guess I'm a bit more generous with the term "dive". I'd like to hear your requirements for a dive. And do you think there is such a thing in this city as a gastro-dive?
Posted by Patrick A. Coleman on February 26, 2010 at 11:09 AM · Report
16
Bonfire Lounge is probbly my favorite "gastro-dive". Is it even divey? I don't know.
Posted by Graham on February 26, 2010 at 11:19 AM · Report
17
Patrick:

My definition of dive includes that it's impossible for it to be relatively new or "intentionally so".

It's a place that's dark and well worn in, has served multiple generations, and is most likely "past it's prime".

Usually in need of maintenance.

Electric sign that at best only partially works.
stained carpet or cracked flooring
Smoke stained everything
at least one visible item repaired with duct tape
etc...

Posted by jeff on February 26, 2010 at 11:20 AM · Report
18
Yeah, I don't think I'd called the Bonfire a dive, myself (it's... a bar), but I really like their food.
Posted by Alison Hallett on February 26, 2010 at 11:26 AM · Report
19
Unfortunately Hal's is no longer that much of a dive. They've cleaned it up quite a bit and, in my opinion, let too much light into the place. There was nothing better than throwing that door open on a sunny Saturday and watching the wall-people shrink in horror as the light soaked their weathered frames.
Posted by jim on February 26, 2010 at 11:31 AM · Report
20
To add to the "etc " on Jeff's list:

- dog poop (nicely bagged) in the ashtray out front (as witnessed outside of Thatcher's last night)
http://tinyurl.com/yctt7o7

- at 10:00am, ordering off the breakfast menu but being told "I'm to busy to cook right now"

- And if you have been to Coasters on Powell, a very tip top health inspection rating. They were at 100% forever, but recently have a "100% -1" rating due to a minor infraction.
Posted by humanclock on February 26, 2010 at 12:24 PM · Report
21
I hate to be that guy who swears certain things are better where they came from BUT...for as great as Portland is, there's a serious shortage of quality gastro-pub fare. Most places serve only what's required to get their booze license. Perhaps Oregon pubs would pay more heed to food quality if they didn't have built-in income from those stinkin' poker machines.

Regardless, the first place that came to mind was Corbett St. Fish House. Great fried fish and shrimp. No surprise this place is a Wisconsin bar-pubs like this are all over my home state.
Posted by TSW on February 26, 2010 at 12:44 PM · Report
22
There's air hockey at Blitz, across the street from Powells.
Posted by Reymont on February 26, 2010 at 12:51 PM · Report
23
@Reymont I didn't notice one when I was there last month, but I guess I wasn't really looking for it.
Posted by atomic on February 26, 2010 at 1:57 PM · Report
24
@atomic - Downstairs, in the SE corner. I think it's been there since they opened - but I haven't been in for maybe 6 weeks, so maybe it finally wandered off.
Posted by Reymont on February 26, 2010 at 2:24 PM · Report
25
@jim,
Perfect descrption of entering Hal's on anytime before 2 pm. I used to go there all the time back in the day and it was always a good mix of young and crusty, old. One day I had to stop and use the phone about 9am. I opened the door and it was PACKED with crusty, old, drunk codgers. No youths in site. Ciggy smoke wafting everywhere. Not a speck of natural light, just the way they liked it.
Posted by TSW on February 26, 2010 at 3:58 PM · Report

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