This Week in the Mercury

Up & Coming


Up & Coming

This Week's Music Previews

Film Shorts


Film Shorts

In Which We Hit It and Quit It

Thursday, January 31, 2013

What The Critic Saw - Shut Up and Eat

Posted by Chris Onstad on Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 10:44 AM

The business end of the Italian hoagie.
  • The business end of the Italian hoagie.

Shut Up and Eat, the subject of this week's Last Supper review, serves oversized, boldly-flavored sandwiches that have all the visual swagger of the name, but eat like intelligently constructed, thoughtfully-portioned things. You can pick them all up, you can take a bite without wearing it ear-to-ear, and the bread will still be doing its job at the end. As I hope was clear in the review, I love this "truck-to-table" success story. While I hope they are able to expand, a conversation with the chef one afternoon reveals a team still fine-tuning their initial operation. They must mean Quickbooks or something, because on all five visits—during quiet after-breakfast lulls and at the height of the lunch rush—the only thing I could find to be miffed about was that the table in the back by the restrooms was a bit drafty. But I am a cold-bodied person whose hands and feet are chilled when he beds down, and colder when he wakes up.

Here, as is tradition, are my terrible photographs of the food, taken in worried moments, Photoshopped without repeatable technique.

Fennel biscuit, egg muffin with roast squash.
  • Fennel biscuit, egg muffin with roast squash.

They make their own biscuits and English muffins, which are excellent in terms of flavor, texture, and performance. "Their biscuit performs well," is a possible sentence one can say.

Charring bread for the salad.
  • Charring bread for the salad.

A cozy view from the counter on a brisk winter morning.

Tender and juicy roast pork with dippin jus.
  • Tender and juicy roast pork with dippin' jus.

The roast pork in this sandwich is very well-cooked, but I'm personally not jazzed by this bass note of an ingredient, and would have doctored this up with some spice and pickled things. Roast pork lovers, though: you have your sandwich.

Sausage and peppers and probably strong greens, etc.
  • Sausage and peppers.

I was with a four-year old kid who ended up eating half this despite a typical diet of popcorn and Slurpees. It had strong greens and peppers; he was unfazed.

My way: much less attractive, but easier to eat.
  • My way: much less attractive, but easier to eat.

They told me not to publicize this bread choice. I can see why: It is not nearly as beautiful as their version, which was designed with a feeling man's eye. I think it was under-laden with vegetables for take-out, as well. But: it ate so, so perfectly. Sorry, guys.

More on Food

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2


Comments are closed.

All contents © Index Newspapers, LLC

115 SW Ash St. Suite 600
Portland, OR 97204

Contact Info | Privacy Policy | Production Guidelines | Terms of Use | Takedown Policy