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Wednesday, October 16, 2013

What the Critic Saw: Angel Food and Fun

Posted by Chris Onstad on Wed, Oct 16, 2013 at 11:14 AM

Last week's review of Angel Food and Fun has been a personal project for over a year. I love that the place is a one-man band, that the food is distinctly regional (and done by a chef from that region), and that it's in the middle of nowhere in unincorporated Cully (sorry Cully residents, but NE 60th is no SE Division). I think it needs some attention drawn to it because though it seems to do alright, it deserves to be a lot busier. Under the new ownership the food is worlds beyond what used to be available here, and Bluehour veteran sous chef Manuel Lopez is a friendly fellow, happy to talk about his dishes. Go pay him a visit, even if you just go for a burrito: he griddles the cheese into a gooey pancake with crusty lace edges before layering it onto the tortilla and adding the fillings, which makes for a "why doesn't everybody do this" flavor dimension.

Here are my terrible-as-usual photos of some of the stand-out dishes from my many, many visits...

Panucho, salbute, empanada. All three worth ordering, and done well.
  • Panucho, salbute, empanada. All three worth ordering, and done well.

And more after the jump!

Cochinita pibil - the must-try. Served with fresh handmade corn tortillas.
  • Cochinita pibil - the must-try. Served with fresh handmade corn tortillas.

Escabeche. Clean and clear flavors in a soup that will feed two.
  • Escabeche. Clean and clear flavors in a soup that will feed two.

Relleno Blanco - hearty, thickened winter soup.
  • Relleno Blanco - hearty, thickened winter soup.

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