We’ve all got our brunch favorites, a core of familiarity we love to go back to again and again. But it’s good to have back ups in case there’s a line (I ain’t ever queuing for brunch), an option for another part of town, or just for a change of scene. Hence, I wanted to see what Ataula, which has been praised for its modern take on traditional Spanish tapas, could make of brunch.
First off, on a recent Sunday visit, it wasn’t packed, just happily buzzing. The coffee, from Local Roasting, was flavorful and the Mimosa Melocoton had an added kick from peach peel soaked in brandy. The food didn’t disappoint, either, being detailed but not fussy and featuring well-prepared dishes you won’t see elsewhere. A Tortilla de Bacalao with catalan beans and roasted green peppers managed to get the flavors just right—the salt cod didn’t overwhelm the dish, as it often can, while the greens and herbs on top weren’t added for looks, but contributed to the depth of each bite (the key here is to get a bit of everything on the fork to appreciate the full taste). Meanwhile, the Huevas con Chorizo had crispy potato bravas with ground chorizo and an egg on top that had the texture of a poached egg while being crispy on the outside. Again, the dish worked best taken as a whole.
For two people, including drinks and an extensive cheese plate (I’m never going to pass up the opportunity of a good cheese plate), the bill was $50, which given the service and quality of food felt about right. Ataula makes it onto my essential brunch list, for sure. 1818 NW 23rd Pl, Sunday brunch 10 am – 2 pm
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