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PITY ME: My day job is in the Lloyd District, the wonderland of Buffalo Wild Wings, Burger King, and mall food. All the better reason to pack a lunch.

Yet there's one sure bet to draw me out of my cube and out to the E-San Thai truck parked in the Oregon Square between NE 7th and 8th off Holladay: nam kao ($9). E-San kills this traditional dish of crispy fried rice balls, which are cracked open and served over a bed of lettuce. With chicken, fresh Thai chile, mint leaves, lime juice, and peanuts, it's a spicy and umami-packed lunch treat big enough for two meals.

People don't order it often, which is a damn shame: Because of my unique obsession, the cart guy knows my name and order, and I go only once or twice a month.

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